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Sunday, January 19, 2014

Tortellini En Brodo



It started a thousand or so years ago, after a battle between Modena and neighboring Bologna. After fighting
one day, the gods Venus and Jupiter retreated to a inn to spend the night. The innkeeper was so overtaken with Venus’s beauty he spied on her through a hole in the door. The only part of Venus’s body the peeping innkeeper could see was her navel. The innkeeper then retreated back to the kitchen.  All he could think about is the shape of her belly button. And that’s why we have tortellini. Will thank you Venus, because this is the best soup I have ever made! It is a two day process. The labor is in making the Tortellini. I make them and then freeze them on a sheet pan. You can then add them directly into the broth. The broth freezes for a very long time. I portion out the broth and freeze. The broth in itself is wonderful.


If you do not want to make the Tortellini you can make Passatelli. This is simply Parmesan dumpling. You will need 1 1/2 cups of Parmigiano Reggiano, 2/3 cup of plain bread crumbs, 2 large eggs, 1 egg yolk and fresh nutmeg, Mix the above mentioned ingredients and force them through a ricer into the hot broth.

                                                                                      For the broth


One 4-lb. chicken, (traditionally it is a capon) cut into 6 pieces
2 lb. veal bones or veal shank
2 lb. beef stew meat or scraps
1 apple, quartered
1 medium yellow onion, quartered
2 medium carrots, cut into large pieces
2 celery stalks, cut into large pieces
3 whole cloves
10 black peppercorns
2 fresh bay leaves
1 small bunch of parsley
3 thyme leaves
3 tablespoons of dried porcini mushrooms
1 tablespoon of soy sauce
1 good pinch of red pepper flakes
One 3-inch-square Parmigiano-Reggiano rind (optional)




 For the filling
1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter
5 oz. boneless pork loin, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 1 cup)
1/2 cup dry white wine
3 oz. sliced prosciutto, coarsely chopped (2/3 cup)
3 oz. sliced mortadella, coarsely chopped (3/4 cup)
1 oz. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/2 cup grated on the small holes of a box grater)
1/2 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
1 large egg, lightly beaten
Kosher Salt







For the pasta dough
10-1/2 oz. (2-1/3 cups) 00 Napoli Flour (You can use AP Flour); more as needed
4 large eggs

Make the broth

Wash the chicken, veal bones, beef, and vegetables under cold running water. (Veal bones must be coated with a neutral cooking oil and then baked in a 400 degree oven for thirty minutes.) Warning if you have a dog they will go crazy. So, do save one for the dog! Now put all of the broth ingredients, except the salt, in a 10-quart pot and add 6-1/2 quarts (26 cups) of cold water. Partially cover the pot and bring to a simmer over medium heat. As soon as the water begins to bubble, reduce the heat to low and, with a fine-mesh skimmer or a large spoon, skim off and discard any foam that has risen to the surface. Partially cover the pot and simmer gently until the broth is flavorful, about 2-1/2 hours. Add 1 Tbs. salt during the last few minutes of cooking.

Remove the chicken and discard or save the meat for another use. Using a slotted spoon, discard the remaining solids from the broth. Strain the broth through a fine strainer into a large bowl. Line the strainer with a clean thin kitchen towel or cheesecloth and strain the broth again into another large bowl. You should have about 6 quarts of broth. Transfer the broth to storage containers and refrigerate overnight. Remove the fat and reserve the broth.

Make the filling

Melt the butter in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the pork and cook, stirring, until lightly golden and cooked through, about 4 minutes. Increase the heat to high, pour in the wine, and stir until it is almost evaporated, 3 to 5 minutes. Let cool slightly.

Transfer the pork and its juices to a food processor. Add the prosciutto and mortadella and pulse until the mixture is very finely chopped (but not puréed).

Transfer the filling to a medium bowl and add the Parmigiano, nutmeg, egg, and 1/8 tsp. salt. Mix well. (The filling should be moist and just a little sticky.) Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate.



  Make the pasta dough

On a large wooden board or other work surface, shape the flour into a mound. Using your fingers, make a round well in the center of the flour. Carefully crack the eggs into the well, making sure they don’t escape the walls of the well. Lightly beat the eggs with a fork. Begin to incorporate flour into the eggs with the fork, starting from the inner rim of the well, until about half of the flour is incorporated and a soft dough begins to form.

With a dough scraper, push all of the remaining flour to one side of the board. Scrape off and discard the bits and pieces of dough attached to the board. Wash and dry your hands. Begin adding some of the flour you have pushed aside into the soft dough, kneading it gently with the heels of your hands as you incorporate the additional flour and the dough becomes firmer. Keep the board clean and dust it with flour as you knead to prevent the dough from sticking. After kneading for 8 to 10 minutes, the dough should be smooth, elastic, and just a little sticky.


Press one finger into the center of the dough; if it comes out barely moist, the dough is ready to be rolled out. If the dough is still quite sticky, add a little more flour and knead it for 2 to 3 minutes longer until soft and pliable.

Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let it rest at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes.



Roll the Pasta

Unwrap the dough and knead it for a minute or two. Set the rollers of a pasta machine at their widest. Cut off a piece of dough about the size of a small lemon and flatten it with the palm of your hand to about 1/2 inch thick. As you work, keep the rest of the dough wrapped in plastic. Dust the piece of dough lightly with flour and run it through the machine.


Fold the rolled dough in half and run it through the machine again, pressing it with your fingertips into the rollers . Repeat this step 4 or 5 times, dusting the dough with flour if it becomes sticky, until smooth and elastic. Change the rollers to the next setting down and roll out the dough without folding. Repeat rolling the sheet of dough (without folding) through the pasta machine, decreasing the settings until the pasta is 1/8 inch thick.    

On a floured wooden board, cut the dough into 1-1/2-inch squares. Keep the squares covered with plastic as you shape the tortellini. You can also use a tortellini press. I have the press pictured and it is a real time saver. You can also add spinach to the pasta dough. This is not transitional, but just as good.



Shape the tortellini

Put about 1/8 tsp. of the filling in the center of a pasta square. Bring one corner over the filling toward the corner diagonally opposite and fold into a triangle. Press around the filling to seal. Bend the tortellino around your finger with one corner slightly overlapping the other and press to seal. The tortellino will look like a crown. Transfer to a large rimmed baking sheet lined with a clean kitchen towel. Arrange the tortellini in a single layer without letting them touch (you’ll need 2 to 3 baking sheets) and cover with another clean towel.





Repeat the filling and shaping with the remaining pasta and filling.

Cook and serve the tortellini en brodo


You can make as many or as few servings as you like. For each serving, you’ll need 1-1/2 cups of broth and 14 tortellini. Bring the broth to a boil in a large pot over medium heat. Gently drop the tortellini into the pot. Cook until they rise to the surface and are tender but still firm to the bite, 2 to 3 minutes for fresh, 4 to 5 minutes for frozen. Remove the pot from the heat. Ladle the tortellini and broth into serving bowls, sprinkle with grated Parmigiano, and serve immediately.

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