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Saturday, September 20, 2014

Chicken Fricassee with Chantrelles


Late September and early October are peak wild-mushroom season, especially in Western Washington around the Olympic Peninsula. There are varieties that "fruit" in the fall. The boletus and the somewhat rarer matsutake. But in our area the chanterelles, in both the yellow and the white variety are especially common, particularly under the cover of second growth forests rich with hemlock. 

The chanterelles look similar to other mushrooms when they first push up. But later they widen and spread to create the familiar trumpet-like chanterelle fan, with thick ridges along their underside and down the stalk. You do need to be careful if you're hunting wild mushrooms; there are a few poisonous mushrooms that a beginner might confuse for a chanterelle. Go with an expert the first time, at least, and remember that there are legal restrictions about when, where, and how many mushrooms you can  harvest. 

I was very lucky and obtained mine from Carpinto Brother's. It is very hard to get commercial ones that are in peak condition. I can not stress how important top quality ingredients are for this dish.  A very good Vouvray and organic chicken is a must.

one 3 1/2 pound organic chicken, portioned with skin on
3 tablespoons of butter
1 celery stock diced
2 small carrots diced
1 leek diced
1 onion diced
2 to 3 cloves of garlic minced
1 bundle of fresh thyme, sage and a small bit of fresh rosemary
2/3 cup of Vouvray
1/2 teaspoon of fennel seeds
1/2 teaspoon of smoked paprika
salt and freshly cracked black pepper
1 fresh bay leaf
2 cups of chantrelle mushrooms
1 cup of triple cream
3 cups of chicken stock
1/2 teaspoon of crushed red pepper
3 tablespoons of flour

Brown the dried chicken pieces in a heavy cast iron pot with the butter. You will need to do this in two batches. Set the chicken aside on a plate. Now add the onions, carrots, leeks, and fennel seed to the pot. Saute the vegetables until they have just a little brown around the edges. Add the minced garlic and saute a few minutes. 

Now sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and saute until the raw flavor of the flour is removed. Add the wine and bring to a boil. Burn off any harsh flavor the wine may have. The Vouvray from La Forcine is just under ten dollars. I highly recommend it. A harsh tasting wine would  really overwhelm the taste of the Chantrelles. 

Now add all the other ingredient except for the cream. You will simmer covered for 40 minutes. No longer then this. Remove the chicken to a plate and toss the bay leaf and herb bundle. You may need to reduce the sauce a little by simmering. When this has been done check for seasoning and add the cream. I suggest serving this dish with steamed basmati rice. An excellent wine to serve or use for this dish is a Massciarelli. It is also very reasonably priced.  Esquin Wines in Seattle's SODO district has been in business since 1969. I love this place. The owner's two daughters are the best sommeliers.



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