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Sunday, June 28, 2015

Buttermilk Ice Cream with Fresh Blueberry Sauce

Buttermilk reminds me of my grandparents. They liked to drink cold buttermilk. They would talk about milking the cow and making butter during the depression. Everyone suffered back then. My father was a vertigo orphan being passed down from relative to relative. His parents finding work only occasionally.

But for my grandma she remembered the good parts of neighbors coming together and playing cards. My grandfather being Amish was use to going without. For him electric lights and running water were a blessing. After the First World War and looking after the Calvary horses he was happy to have a home with a bed. From my loving Grandparents, I learned that their is such happiness in the simplest of things. Trout fishing and mud pies for one. My mother and my uncle were blessed to have such loving parents. This recipe would be made in a hand crank ice cream maker. Peach ice cream was my families favorite. We would sit on the front porch and take our turns adding salt and ice. One of us would be cranking the maker. So while fresh peaches are not in season this will be equally as good.

2 cups heavy cream

1 cup sugar

¹∕8 teaspoon of kosher salt

1½ teaspoons vanilla extract

6 egg yolks

2 cups buttermilk


Put the cream, half of the sugar, salt and vanilla in a saucepan. Whisk to combine.  Bring the cream to just a boil. While the cream is heating, combine the yolks and remaining sugar in a bowl. Using a whisk, beat until mixture is pale and thick. Once the cream  has come to a slight boil, whisk about one third of the hot cream into the yolks and sugar mixture. Add another one third of the mixture, then return the combined mixture to the saucepan. Using a wooden spoon, stir the mixture constantly over low heat until it thickens slightly and coats the back of the spoon. This mixture must NOT boil or the yolks will overcook.

Pour the mixture through a fine mesh strainer. Whisk in the buttermilk and bring to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours, or overnight. Whisk mixture again before pouring into the ice cream maker.

 Pour the mixture into the mixing bowl of an ice cream maker and process. Takes about forty minutes.

Blueberry Sauce:

2 cups fresh blueberries
1/3 cup sugar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon of fresh lemon rind
1/4 teaspoon of cinnamon 

Bring all to a boil in a sauce pan and then refrigerate. Now add to the sauce some Creme de Cassis and serve over ice cream !

Friday, June 12, 2015

Seasonal Preserves From Provence



I am reading a captivating book about the regional traditions of French Cuisine. It was written by none other than Elizabeth David in 1960. France was a simpler time then. Charles De Gaulle was Prime Minister and he was a strong leader. Now times are troubling with a socialist prime minister. No one would have thought in 1960 that you would have a socialist as a prime minister. Such are the sad times economically the country has gone through. Many would like to go back to 1960.



 So for those of you who would I suggest reading her book. You will begin to understand what is at the heart of french regional cooking and Provence has a tradition of really fantastic preserves. It is a family affair where grandmothers and numerous family members argue over a large copper pot steaming and bubbling with fresh seasonal fruits. Cherries are in season and with the winds of Provence spinning in my head I thought I would attempt to make their famous cherry jam.




I made two batches of jam. One with Rainier Cherries and one with Bing Cherries. You can use this recipe for either one. Do not mix the varieties however. You can even make a bitter pie cherry jam using this recipe. You will just need to slowly increase the sugar content to your liking.

French cherry jam has brandy in it. For the Rainier Cherries they pare nicely with Disaronno a almond liquor. For the bing I use a combination of Grand Marnier and Courvoisier a cognac.




Pitting cherries is something you do by listening to some wonderful music or watch a interesting TV show. There are some great equipment for cherry pit removal, I used a very simple hand one. You will need two and one half pounds of fresh cherries.

This recipe will make about two pints.

6 1/2 cups of cherries pitted
1 1/4 cups of sugar
1 lemon juiced
1/4 cup of pectin powder
1 airport size bottle of brandy

Bring all the ingredients with the exception of the pectin to a boil and refrigerate over night. Now strain the cherries from the juice and set aside. Boil the juice and add the pectin. Add the cherries and cook until you get the consistent you like. I then pour the jam in canning jars. Process the jars for ten full minutes in boiling water. You will hear the clink and then they are sealed. I love this jam over ice cream, in crepes, and even over cheese cake.

Asparagus is in season too. Pickled asparagus is great with Prosciutto. The French would pair with a lovely French Ham and if times where better white asparagus Aigre-Doux.

Enjoy!