Emilia Romagna Ragu

For the sauce:

1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes in juice, preferably San Marzano

1 1/2 to 2 1/2 cups chicken stock

3 tablespoon tomato paste, preferably double concentrated

2 teaspoon chicken bullion

2 celery rib, chopped

1 medium onion, chopped

2 medium carrot, chopped

1 red pepper, chopped

1 pound of mushrooms, quartered

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 ounces sweet Italian sausage, removed from casing

2 ounces pancetta finely chopped

3/4 pound ground beef

3/4 pound ground pork

1/2 pound ground veal

Fine sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 cup dry red wine

1 fresh bay leaf

1 sprig rosemary

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper

1 sprig of fresh thyme

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

3 whole cloves of garlic

1 teaspoon smoked Spanish paprika

3/4 cup whole milk

Freshly grated nutmeg

Make a battuto by finely chopping together (by hand) celery, red pepper, garlic, onion and carrot.

Heat butter over medium-low heat until melted and foaming; add battuto, sausage and pancetta. Cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until sausage is broken into small bits, then continue cooking, stirring frequently, until vegetables are softened (brown), about 25 minutes.

Add beef, pork and veal; increase heat to medium. Cook, stirring until meat is broken into small bits, then season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring constantly for 10 minutes more  (brown).

Add wine; bring to a boil and cook until wine and juices in pot are mostly evaporated, 3 to 5 minutes. Add reserved puréed tomato, reserved chicken stock, mushrooms and spices.

Cook ragù at the barest simmer, stirring occasionally (making sure to stir into edges of pot), until meat is very tender and sauce is thick (as sauce thickens, add water, bit by bit, if necessary, to keep sauce moist and just barely liquid), about
2 1/2 hours.

Add milk and continue cooking for 30 minutes more. Stir in pinch nutmeg. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

For serving:

Pasta, cooked until tender in salted water

Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese