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Wednesday, September 24, 2014

Cinderella Pumpkins

I found these heirloom Cinderella pumpkins from France at Maple Valley Fred Meyer. They are also sold as a Rouge Vif d’Etampes. The smaller ones are called Sparkle pumpkins.

It sure is easy to see how the softly flattened top and ridged, deep orange inspired Cinderella’s carriage in Charles Perrault’s classic French fairy tale.

What is even better is the rich orange flesh is tasty in pies !

Saturday, September 20, 2014

Chicken Fricassee with Chantrelles


Late September and early October are peak wild-mushroom season, especially in Western Washington around the Olympic Peninsula. There are varieties that "fruit" in the fall. The boletus and the somewhat rarer matsutake. But in our area the chanterelles, in both the yellow and the white variety are especially common, particularly under the cover of second growth forests rich with hemlock. 

The chanterelles look similar to other mushrooms when they first push up. But later they widen and spread to create the familiar trumpet-like chanterelle fan, with thick ridges along their underside and down the stalk. You do need to be careful if you're hunting wild mushrooms; there are a few poisonous mushrooms that a beginner might confuse for a chanterelle. Go with an expert the first time, at least, and remember that there are legal restrictions about when, where, and how many mushrooms you can  harvest. 

I was very lucky and obtained mine from Carpinto Brother's. It is very hard to get commercial ones that are in peak condition. I can not stress how important top quality ingredients are for this dish.  A very good Vouvray and organic chicken is a must.

one 3 1/2 pound organic chicken, portioned with skin on
3 tablespoons of butter
1 celery stock diced
2 small carrots diced
1 leek diced
1 onion diced
2 to 3 cloves of garlic minced
1 bundle of fresh thyme, sage and a small bit of fresh rosemary
2/3 cup of Vouvray
1/2 teaspoon of fennel seeds
1/2 teaspoon of smoked paprika
salt and freshly cracked black pepper
1 fresh bay leaf
2 cups of chantrelle mushrooms
1 cup of triple cream
3 cups of chicken stock
1/2 teaspoon of crushed red pepper
3 tablespoons of flour

Brown the dried chicken pieces in a heavy cast iron pot with the butter. You will need to do this in two batches. Set the chicken aside on a plate. Now add the onions, carrots, leeks, and fennel seed to the pot. Saute the vegetables until they have just a little brown around the edges. Add the minced garlic and saute a few minutes. 

Now sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and saute until the raw flavor of the flour is removed. Add the wine and bring to a boil. Burn off any harsh flavor the wine may have. The Vouvray from La Forcine is just under ten dollars. I highly recommend it. A harsh tasting wine would  really overwhelm the taste of the Chantrelles. 

Now add all the other ingredient except for the cream. You will simmer covered for 40 minutes. No longer then this. Remove the chicken to a plate and toss the bay leaf and herb bundle. You may need to reduce the sauce a little by simmering. When this has been done check for seasoning and add the cream. I suggest serving this dish with steamed basmati rice. An excellent wine to serve or use for this dish is a Massciarelli. It is also very reasonably priced.  Esquin Wines in Seattle's SODO district has been in business since 1969. I love this place. The owner's two daughters are the best sommeliers.



Tuesday, September 2, 2014

Leite's Culinaria Twinkie Cake

You must go to the website for all the culinary
happenings !

Ingredients

For the cake
6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus more for the pan
3 cups cake flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup mild vegetable oil, such as canola, grape seed, safflower, or sunflower
3 large eggs plus 4 large egg yolks, at room temperature
1 cup buttermilk, at room temperature

For the cream filling

1 7.5-ounce jar marshmallow crème
8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting (optional)



Directions

Make the cake
1. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F (163°C). Coat a 12-cup Bundt pan with nonstick cooking spray or butter and dust it lightly with flour, tapping out any excess.
2. Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and vanilla on medium speed until smooth and creamy. Add the sugar and beat until evenly mixed, about 1 minute. With the machine still running, slowly pour in the oil and beat until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the eggs and egg yolks, 1 at a time, beating thoroughly after each addition.
4. Reduce the mixer speed to low. Alternately stir in the flour mixture and buttermilk in 3 additions each, ending with the buttermilk. Mix on low speed just until the batter is smooth and no lumps remain. Turn off the mixer and gently fold the batter several times by hand with a spatula to ensure everything is incorporated. Pour the batter into the prepared pan.
5. Bake for 60 to 70 minutes, until the cake is golden, the top springs back when lightly pressed, and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Place the pan on a wire rack and let cool completely, about 2 hours.

Make the cream filling

6. In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat together the marshmallow crème, butter, and vanilla until smooth. Transfer to a pastry bag fitted with a large round tip or spoon it into a large resealable plastic bag with a bottom corner snipped off.
7. While the cake is still in the pan, use a paring knife or an apple corer to make 6 or 7 deep, evenly spaced notches or holes in the bottom of the cake, each about 3/4 of an inch in diameter, being careful to cut no more than halfway through to the top of the cake. Discard—that is, nibble—any cake scraps. Using your fingertips, gently forge a horizontal tunnel through the cake that connects the vertical holes.
8. Insert the tip of the pastry or plastic bag into each hole and squeeze in some of the filling, tilting the bag back and forth as you work to encourage the filling to make its way into the horizontal tunnel. When the cake is filled, use a spatula to scrape away any excess filling from the bottom of the cake. Quickly and carefully invert the cake onto a platter. Dust with confectioners’ sugar, if desired. Slice and serve.

Apple Wood Smoked Tomato Soup With Basil


I have a hot smoke electric smoker that keeps things very moist. Excellent for turkey, fish and vegetables.

When I was smoking a turkey breast, I got the idea to smoke some tomatoes. They are wonderful this time of the year. I like slow roasting tomatoes too. But the smoker really adds a wonderful flavor you just can't get from an oven.

The tomatoes really need to be at their best for this. If they are not in season, I would use canned.
All you have to do is fire up a smoker or even a barbecue. Just slice the tomatoes in half and seed. Place the tomatoes on the smoker cut side down. I smoked mine for thirty minutes. Take them out of the smoker and then the skins will just peel off. Set aside for use.

I have add soy sauce to the soup. You would think this would compete with the flavors of the soup. But trust me it really adds a little umami flavor.










1 onion diced
1 carrot diced
1 celery stock diced
2 cloves of garlic minced
1 fresh bay leaf
fresh thyme leaves
fresh black pepper
1/4 cup of fresh basil
3 tablespoons of soy sauce
1 teaspoon of ground Aleppo pepper
3 tablespoons of olive oil
1 cup heavy cream
2 cups of chicken soup
3 cups of smoked tomatoes or 24 ounce can of fire roasted tomatoes

Saute the onions, carrots and celery in the olive oil. You want a little color on the vegetables. Now add the garlic and saute until lightly colored. Now add everything else except the cream. Cook the soup on medium heat for 15 minutes. Now remove the bay leaf and blend the soup in a blender. Place the blended mixture back into the pot and add the cream.

Sunday, August 17, 2014

Fresh Fig Tart with Almonds

 Fresno has the climate for growing any kind of fresh produce. As a child, I remember my
Grandfather's farm in Fresno. He grew fresh grapes, tangerines and oh so many lovely things.
At a local market, I was surprise to find really fresh figs. There is something exotic about fresh figs. It brings up memories from the past.

This recipe is oh so easy. Start by preheating your oven to 375 degrees. You will need to grind the almonds in a blender to make a meal. Sliced almonds are the best for this. Or you can try and find a hand stone grinding wheel. My Grandfather would grind buckwheat for use in the morning and make us fresh buckwheat pancakes !




1/4 cup of sugar and 2 tablespoons
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
4 tablespoons of melted butter
1 cup of ground sliced almonds
1/4 cup of flour
\3 extra large eggs
1/4 teaspoon of almond extract
8 sliced fresh figs
apricot jam to glaze cake

In a bowl place all your dry ingredients. Mix with a whisk. Now add in your wet ingredients. Place the batter into a 8 inch spring form pan. Now add the sliced fresh figs on top. Bake the cake until it does not jiggle. Remove the pan from the oven. Now brush the cake with apricot jam. 

Saturday, August 9, 2014

Quiche

I am often up before dawn. This is the time a chef' seeks inspiration. I will go to the market and check out what inspires me. Yesterday, I found farm fresh triple cream, wild mushrooms, watercress, organic zucchini and a nutty aged Gruyere.

The ingredients spoke to me !

Start by making my never fail pie crust recipe and divide into two and refrigerate. 

Now slice two shallots and the mushrooms and saute until a light golden brown. Add in a large minced garlic and the sliced zucchini. Do not fully cook the zucchini. It should be almost raw.  Lightly season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Now add 1/2 teaspoon of your favorite herbs. I added fresh chives and Herbes de Provenece. I like the blend that has just a little bit of fennel seed in it. 

Now roll out the pie dough to fit your pan. I really like to use the removable bottom quiche or tart pans. I do not use the base however. I just use the frame and place it directly on the sheet pan. Crank up your oven to about 500 degrees and you will be using the lower rack for baking.

Now line the pastry with the mushrooms, zucchini mixture. Tear off the leaves from the watercress and slice. Arrange the watercress on top of the zucchini mixture. Now grade the Gruyere and arrange as if this was a pizza. Add a little grated fresh nutmeg to the quiche. I can not tell you how many eggs or cream you will need to fill the tart shell. It is a ratio. For every three eggs you will need 3/4 of a cup of heavy cream. Beat the cream and eggs well. You will pour this mixture over you tart. Bake the quiche until a lovely golden brown. You will be able to lift up the quiche and check out the bottom. It will be the same golden brown.


Friday, July 18, 2014

Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Fresh Berries

The tang of buttermilk goes well with fresh seasonal berries. Buttermilk is low in fat and offsets the additional cream added.

Well, that is what any good chef will tell you. This recipe takes minutes to make and uses up any buttermilk you may have on hand.

Ingredients:

2 cups of cream
1 teaspoon of unflavored gelatin
1/3 cup of sugar
1 vanilla bean
1 cup of buttermilk
Fresh berries

Take 2 extra tablespoons of buttermilk and place in a very small bowl. Now add your gelatin and let stand. In the mean time combine the cream, split vanilla bean and sugar in a sauce pan. Heat up the mixture just until the sugar is dissolved. Now let the mixture cool. Remove the vanilla bean taking care that all the seeds are left in the cream. Add the gelatin and buttermilk with a whisk. Pour into small serving dishes.

Refrigerate. When cold and set run a sharp knife around the edge of the dish. Flip over and top with berries.